All Chef Must Learn Here’: Unassuming Turkish Dining Spot Earns 4th on Roll of London’s Leading Food Spots.
When compiling a roll of London’s best dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred names. However, tucked high among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant part of northern London.
An Shocking Accolade
This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential gastronomic guide. The accolade has left the proprietors utterly surprised.
“I’m totally astonished,” states the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their humble shop achieving such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.
The Character of Simplicity
The little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former character. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.
A Star Dish: Tantuni
In the end, it is focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant more than excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender texture.
It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded securely inside.
It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.
Other Than the Basic Tantuni
There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.
When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, toastier and more balanced taste.
Surpassing the Titans
Interestingly, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.
While two people could easily leave this place satisfied for under £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that figure.
The Creed of Heart
The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.
“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”
This philosophy is supported by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to reveal what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.
A Story of Dedication
In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.
Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.
“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.
An Achievement for the People
The restaurant’s accolade is bound to echo beyond its own walls. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this gastronomic honour.